What's the difference between ONEs and TWOs ?

Differences between MetroLux (1) and MetroLux II

I'm asked frequently the difference between the MetroLux ONEs and TWOs.  They do the same thing with equal precision.  TWOs have a few nice extras.

The below assumes that you know the general use and function of MetroLux (generically called an integrator, integrating timer, closed-loop timer, and others)  It monitors the light output of your printing lamp (cold light, LED, the sun) while you print and adjusts the time to get the print's exposure the same every time.  It's auto-exposure for your enlarger.  Cold lights drift considerably as they change temperature.  LEDs can be pretty good, but even they can vary, plus it depends on how they are driven.  The sun (platinum printers) has clouds and haze.

Here are the 6 front panel control buttons.  The description is the top level function.  All the buttons can have secondary functions that control niceties and calibration.  Don't be scared, it's simple.

FOCUS turns the enlarger lamp on/off.
UP/DOWN sets the time.
START (or EXPOSE) initiates the timed exposure.
UNITS (or SETUP) chooses between conventional time (seconds) and lux (counting photons).
MEMORY selects the memory that you are using

ONE is a basic machine.  Making adjustments to sound, brightness, that sort of thing, is awkward.  It can be done, but it is weird and unnecessary.  Just live with the standard setting.

TWO is a 'tricked-out' machine, before that expression existed.  Even today, I don't think I'd make a serious change to the design.  It is easy to operate without going back to school.

Feature                                ONE                   TWO

Closed-loop timer                 yes                      yes
LED display                          yes                      yes
Positive click buttons            yes                      yes
Accept footswitch                 yes, START        yes, FOCUS and EXPOSE
Shutter speed timer               NO                      yes
Time or Lux exposures         yes                      yes
Percent control                      yes                      yes
auto calibration                     NO                       yes
calibration 'channels'             2                           2
'time' memories                     3+1                    3 channels of 3+1
Accounts for decay light       NO                     yes

So, what are the NOs?

Shutter speed timer is exactly that.  There is a sensor on the front panel that will measure the speed of your leaf shutters handily.  I love this.  I check all my shutters every few years and when they are too far off for me, I send them out for CLA.

Auto calibration.  The first time you set up your enlarger with a coldlight, this is a nice feature, but it is not the do-all, end-all by any means.  You should still review the numbers and maybe make adjustments.  If you are using any light source besides cold light, then the auto-cal doesn't do really matter.  Not a deal breaker.

Delay light.  (this is the light that comes from a coldlight, tungsten, or quartz lamp after the electricity quits flowing.  It isn't much, but in test strips, it adds up.  If you exposures are short or you light your test strips to be exact, then this is a wonderful feature.  I really like this one as some of my high-key prints require exact exposures.

Memories.  The TWOs have 3 times more.  If you are using the timer for two different enlargers or whatever/however else you might find to use all those memories, then it is nice.  During normal printing I find the 3 times to be fine; one for the main exposure, one for a test strip exposure, and another for a burn or a bump.  The +1 is the percent with a range from 50% to 200% that applies to all the times in that channel.  You can use the percent for dry-down or as a means to achieve shorter or longer exposures, etc.

As you can see, they are about the same.  I have two TWOs in my darkroom.  I like the TWOs a little better.  Easier to change the beep tone or loudness or duration.  The other thing I like about the TWOs is that you can set the times by either 1/10s, 1/2s, 1s, or 10s.  It still counts down the same, but in the setting of the times, sometimes you just don't need to be thinking in 1/10 second when 1/2 second is fine.

The TWOs were designed to accept a remote sensor, but these are no longer available.  The TWOs chassis box easily hangs on the wall or can be propped up with a little piece of wood that you supply.

Footswitches

Footswitches for MetroLux

Both MetroLux (early) and MetroLux II can accommodate a footswitch or two.  MetroLux early had one footswitch socket in which to plug a footswitch.  When used, the footswitch had the option of operating either the START or FOCUS buttons.  Usually it was the FOCUS button, as the selection was made at the factory.

The MetroLux II has two footswitch sockets, one for each function : EXPOSE and FOCUS.

Original footswitches were a product of Linemaster.  Here's a picture of the three I have.

One is a T-51-PS and the other is a T-91-TS.  The one on the right is different and I've had to adapt it, so don't buy that one unless you want to change the connector.  These switches are usually available on eBay.  I'm sure there are others that would work fine, but I don't know what they are.

Here's the connector you want.

It's called a 1/4" phone connector, mono.

OR, you can make your own footswitch if you're handy with such things.  You'll need the phono jack, wire (lamp cord is fine), a switch (single pole, momentary, normal open), and some kind of mechanism to hold the switch under your foot.  The voltage present is very low, only 5V.  There is very little current flowing with switch closed.

I assume no liability.  To the best of my knowledge, what I've posted here is true.  This posting is offered as guidance only.  If you are not sure, then DON'T DO IT.

CHANGES

I hope this works out as I see it today.

My health is changing.  I usually feel just fine, but the doctors are playing with me as they would culture in petri disk.

Meteredlight products are no more.  Sorry about that.  I know there are a few of us clinging to the past.  I'm right there.  Silver all the way:  film and paper.

I have remaining stock of MetroLux's, both ONEs and TWOs.  The TWOs come in black and white.  Supplies are limited.  There are probes to be had.  If you have a new lightsource or are adding another enlarger, you'll need one of these.

There are no more MRS (MetroLux Remote Sensors), Levelers, or Pocket Spot meters.

We are repairing most items.

Documentation.  I've just added the MetroLux 2 instruction manual PDF.  For this there is a link to the rangeoflight website.  Thank you Range of Light.

New things.  I've designed several new things.  An LED lightsource and controller that is relatively easy to DIY.  Also, a 'FLASHER' or pre-exposure thingy for printing and a portable shutter speed timer.  The plan is to post the schematics and the design files.  Those of you that know some electronics will have an easy time following along.  Those that don't will need to meet those that do.  All files will be open source for people to build one for themselves.

I'll be changing the old postings in the blog to reflect reality.   I hope to add the schematics for MetroLux, too, incase you wish to tinker with your MetroLux.  However, once you mess with it, don't ask me to fix it.

You may contact me through email

e j woodbury at gmail dot com

--ejw--

The End

I want to thank all for your interest in our meters and timers.

Karl and I always said we'd do this for fun and when the fun ran out, we'd stop.  With darkrooms on the wane and LED light sources, the need for a closed loop timer has faded.  We still have plenty and the deals are good.  And there are still photo diodes (probes) available, too.  Occasionally, I repair an old MetroLux. 

The Pocket Spot light meter -- well, we just don't make them any more.  My health has taken a turn.  Not sure what direction I'm going, but I have other things that must be done before I'm done. 

I have some other little electronic gadgets I've designed.  For these, I will post the schematic, simulation file (SPICE), and a picture or two as open source and you can build your own. 

Happy Snapping.

PS, if you need to contact me
e j woodbury at gmail dot com

MetroLux 2 Instructions PDF

http://www.rangeoflightphotography.com/Technical%20Manuals/Metrolux%20II%20Controller.pdf

Meter Sub-Ranging and Its Effects

The Pocket Spot Light Meter sub-ranges between 5 and 6 EV. This means that at less than about 6 EV, the meter changes from 1 degree to 3 degree reading. (To judge 3 degrees is the same as 1 degree, but use the thickness of the case. Remember that the actual spot is mostly square, not round as the site implies.)

To optimize meter sensitivity over the widest range, the Pocket Spot Light Meter subranges in two places: at the low end and the high end. For various reasons, the high end sub-ranging is not an issue and will probably never be noticed. But because we photographers are so interested in the shadows, there are times when the EV 5 to 6 range is very important. It is in this range that the meter sub-ranges, i.e. it changes from 1 degree to 3 degrees to gather more light.

So, what happens if the one degree shadow is surrounded by something slightly brighter and the meter sub-ranges? If it isn't that much brighter, the meter will meter the 3 degrees and that is that, but if it is several stops brighter, it will go between 1 degree and 3 degrees displaying a reading that oscillates between the brightness of the 1 degree and the 3 degree. This can be confusing, but knowing what the meter is doing can clarify the reading.

Oops, I dropped my Pocket Spot meter in the ....

We hope this never happens, so to avoid costly and untimely repairs, be sure that the lanyard is in good shape and the knot is tight and the appropriate knot. Always keep the meter secure.

First, if you should have a bad day and drop your meter onto a hard surface or run over it with a car. Don't worry, it is probably okay. It is not out of calibration. If it hit very hard, then it is possible for the electronics to break, but not likely. And they can be replaced or repaired as necessary. If the switch on the bottom appears damaged, don't try to fix it yourself unless you are in the Gobi desert. All other deserts, please contact us. Do not attempt to disassemble this meter. It is virtually impossible unless you know what you are doing. This is not a challenge, only a warning. Don't take the dial off as that will get you nowhere.

Second, if you should drop the meter into a fresh water. See if there is water inside. Although Pocket Spot is not waterproof, it is fairly repellent and should dunk be brief, it may be fine. Dry off the outside. Take out the battery and see if there is water inside. If there is water inside, you will need to send it in for repair. Do not put the battery back in place. Again, if you are in the Gobi and have no email, rinse the meter with distilled water and dry in a warm place such as the sunny dash of you car or a vacuum chamber.

Third, if you should drop the meter into salt water. See above and if there is water inside, then rinse it several times, inside and out, with distilled, reverse osmosis, or de-ionized water. Leave the battery out and contact the factory. If you get it in time, there is hope.