MetroLux One Instructions, end

Options
MetroLux has a variety of different light sensors available for all kinds of light sources and configurations. If you don't see what you need, drop us a card with information about your special needs. Standard equipment currently available for MetroLux is listed below.

LIGHT SENSORS
THE STANDARD LIGHT SENSOR. This sensor is attached to a 72" cord. The sensor end you will permanently attach to your printing lamp, the free end is plugged into the back of the MetroLux.
ZONE VI ADAPTER. This is not a sensor, but a 72" cord that adapts MetroLux to the Zone VI cold light.
LIGHT SENSORS FOR DUAL GRIDS. For those using dual grid (two tube) cold lights , you may wish to use two sensors and a Y-connector that 'adds' the light together.
EXTRAS
FOOTSWITCH. A footswitch with a 72" cord is available. We find it very convenient. It can be used to operate either the Focus or Start key. This choice was made at the time of purchase.
EXTENSION CORDS. Sometimes it's further from you light source to MetroLux than you think. If you need an extension, we offer a 72" probe-extension cord.
Y-ADAPTERS. For use with dual grids or when using MetroLux with two light sources.

Final Reminders
Care and Maintenance
MetroLux should be maintenance free. It is internally fused for you and your equipment's protection. If you feel that a fuse is blown, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REPLACE IT YOURSELF. Refer all internal maintenance to qualified personnel.
Never open, dismantle, disassemble, modify, or insert anything into MetroLux.
If you'd like to clean MetroLux, we recommend a damp cloth and a mild soap. If necessary, the light sensor window may be cleaned with ethyl alcohol.
MetroLux runs best on 120 volts AC at 60 Hz. That's normal in the USA. For your protection, be sure MetroLux and your light source are grounded--don't defeat 3-prong plugs.
There are no batteries in MetroLux.
Obey the warning below and your MetroLux should be happy for a long time.
WARNING: METROLUX SHOULD NOT BE USED WITH LAMPS RATED OVER 720 WATTS RESISTIVE LOADS. DERATE FOR REACTIVE LOADS. CHECK YOUR LAMP'S WATTAGE. IF YOU'RE NOT SURE, FIND OUT. IF YOU NEED A HIGHER POWER RATING FOR YOUR LAMP, USE A CONTACTOR.

Appendix A

Installation Instructions
MetroLux was designed mainly to overcome the problems of light output fluctuations associated with coldlight printing lamps. It will work fine with all light sources that do not exceed the 720 watt power requirement. However, certain precautions must be followed when installing the probe in the light source.
(The probe is packed in a separate plastic bag. It has a plug on one end and a probe on the other.)

A. Unpack MetroLux (MetroLux, probe on 72" cable, plastic strain relief, 4 nylon cable ties).
B. General installation instructions for ALL LIGHT SOURCES:
* Always strain relief the probe such that a tug from the outside cannot damage the tube or other parts of the printing lamp.
* Tie probe wire out of the way. As the enlarger moves up and down, be sure that the probe wire is not pulled or damaged.
* Avoid exposing probe or wire to heat. If it's too hot to touch, it's too hot for the probe (probe temperature range is -15¡ to 140¡F). With some quartz and tungsten lamps, the probe wire will need to be mounted on the outside of the housing away from heat. In this case, the probe can view the light through a small hole drilled several inches from the source. See below.
* The probe's-eye-view is very sensitive to changes in position. The probe should have a clear view of the printing lamp and not be allowed to move.
* Sound pretty complicated? It's very simple. We've installed many probes in all kinds of lamps without problems. If you have problems, drop us a line.

C. FOR COLDLIGHT HEADS: Below is an installation technique we have used for the Aristo D-2 coldlight. The is the most common coldlight. If you have another type, read these instructions for tips on installation in your coldlight. Read the instructions through once before starting. Simple tools and a handyman's logic can perform the operation.
Tools: pencil, masking tape, screwdriver, electric drill with 1/8" and 3/8" bits.

1. Disconnect the power chords and remove the coldlight head from your enlarger.

2. Mark the relative orientation of the cap and bottom of the coldlight with a pencil.

3. Remove the small screws on the side of the coldlight. Lift the cap off the coldlight.

4. Mark the location on the cap where the hole will be drilled. It must be located on the top such that the probe wire will clear the transformer beneath the cap.

5. Drill the hole with 1/8" bit and then widen the same hole with the 3/8" bit.

6. Clean the hole of any burrs and remove shavings from inside the lamp housing from inside the lamp housing.

7. Feed the probe wire through the hole in the cap. Now pass the probe end through the opening on the fluorescent tube mount board towards the tube itself.

8. Look closely at the probe and note which side "sees". It is the side with the shiny square eye. With eye away from fluorescent tube, strap wire to the tube near the center of the cold light grid with nylon cable ties at both 1/4" and 1" distance from probe. From here the sensor can see the 'average intensity' of the light. Pull snug and clip away the excess ties. (Some hi-intensity cold lights may run TOO HOT for this strapping technique. Check the 'on-temperature' of your tube.)

9. Realign cap on lamp; spin in the screws.

10. With the lamp reassembled, take up slack in probe wire by gently pulling excess wire out of cap. Take the strain relief (the strain relief is the odd-shaped, black thing in the plastic bag that the probe came in) and with the wire laid into the larger piece, force the other side in so that it clamps ('pinches') the probe wire. Use a pair of pliers to squeeze and snap this strain relief through hole. See Figure 2A.

D. HELP FOR TUNGSTEN AND QUARTZ LAMPS
As a means of fastening the light sensor to some tungsten and quartz lamp houses, we have used the hole pattern not shown below. With these holes, the probe is positioned over the 1/4" hole, with the wire trailing between the other four (4) holes. Nylon ties through the other holes fasten the light sensor wire to the housing. A drop of epoxy on the back of the light sensor holds it firmly in position.
Before drilling holes in the lamp house, we like to perform an experiment:
With the light source removed from the enlarger, set up MetroLux and the lamp on a work surface. Unwind the light sensor and plug it into MetroLux. Turn MetroLux to the Cal mode, Memory 3. (See CALIBRATION) Turn on the lamp, 'Focus' key. Take the light sensor's eye and point it at your lamp. Watch the number displayed on MetroLux change as the light sensor sees more the light.
What we look for is three things--a comfortable place to put the light sensor, a place where the light is fairly uniform, and a place where the number displayed is greater than 10. You'll find that all numbers between 10 and 127 work fine.